Free Pattern - Lucky Coin Pouches

Back in March last year I was lucky enough to fulfil a life long dream in going to Japan. I’d wanted to go ever since I was very small, for reasons I’m not 100% sure of myself. But the Land Of The Rising Sun has always (and will always!) be a draw for me.

Whilst there I did lots of craft and toy shopping. And as I mentioned in my past posts I also fell in love with the gashapon machines that can be found in stores/arcades all over Tokyo. All of these machines took mainly 100yen coins, so whenever I bought something in a store I separated all the 100yen coins and kept them in my pocket, to use on these machines. I remember wishing I’d had a little purse or pouch to keep them in – it would have made my life a lot easier!

So I decided to make this little Lucky Coin Pouch. I call it lucky because I treasured the little gashapons, and with a pouch full of 100yen coins you would be very lucky and could buy a tonne!

I even added a little Japanese coin to the pouch, for decoration 

I hope you enjoy the little pouch, whether you yourself are travelling to Japan soon or you just want something to keep loose change handy in. I have even made some up to sell at an event I am selling at this weekend, they are so super easy to make 

Enjoy!

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Lucky Coin Pouch

You Will Need

• 3.5mm Hook
• DK/8 Ply/Light WW Yarn in 3 colours (C01, C02, C03)
• Yarn Needle
• Coin with a Hole (Optional)
• Keyring/Keychain (optional)
• Plastic/Wooden Bead (Optional)

Abbreviations

• Ch – Chain
• SlSt – Slip Stitch
• Sc – Single Crochet
• Dc – Double Crochet
• Dc Inc – Double Crochet Increase (2 Dc into one Stitch)
• St/Sts – Stitch/Stitches
• Sp/Sps – Space/Spaces

Special Stitch

• Picot – Ch 3 above the stitch you just completed, SlSt back into the top-front and side posts of the stitch you made before the chain (You can find a good video for Picot Stitch here)

Notes

• Pattern written in US terms
• Finished size is approx. 13cm tall, when using a 3.5mm hook and DK weight yarn
• Please feel free to sell any item made from this pattern, though I kindly ask that you link back to this page if you do <3 li="">

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Pouch

In C01

Ch 4, Join with a SlSt

1. Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc now and throughout pattern), Dc 14 into loop (15 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C02*

2.  Ch 3, Dc into same St. *Dc Inc* x 14 (30 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C03*

3. Ch 3, Dc into same St, Dc 1. *Dc Inc, Dc* around (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C01*

4. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C02*

5. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C03*

6. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C01*

7. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3  (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C02*

8. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C03*

9. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C01*

10. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C02*

11. Ch 3, Dc around. SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (45 Dc)

*Break Yarn/Switch to C03*

12 -13. Ch 1 (Counts as 1st Sc now and for the rest of the pattern), Sc around (45 Sc)

14. Ch 1, Sc. Ch 2, Sk 1 Sc. *Sc 2, Ch 2, Sk 1 Sc* x 14. SlSt to top of beginning Ch 1 (30 Sc, 15 Ch 2 Sps)

15. Ch 1, Sc into each Sc and twice into each Ch 2 Sp around (60 Sc)

16. Ch 1, Sc around (60 Sc)

17. Without Chaining – Sk 2 Sc, Dc 4 into next St. Picot into top of 4th Dc. Dc 3 into same St. Sk 2 Sc, SlSt. *Sk 2 Sc, Dc 4 into next St. Picot into top of 4th Dc. Dc 3 in same St. Sk 2* x 9. SlSt to top of first Dc (10 x 7Dc Cluster)

*Bind Off, Weave In All Ends*

Tie Up

In C02 or C03

Ch 80

*Bind Off, Use Tail to Thread Through Holes in Top of Pouch*

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Assembly

Thread one end of the Tie Up through the eye of a large yarn needle, and thread backwards and forwards though the gaps created by the Ch 2 in round 14. Sew in all loose ends

Japanese Coin Decoration

Optional

Why not add some decoration to your pouch? I used a Japanese coin left over from my holiday and attached it to the Tie Up with a wooden bead. You could also use a lucky Chinese coin or any coin that has a hole in the centre. Simply thread your Tie Up though the hole in the coin, then though the bead, then back though the coin. Continue to thread through the Ch2 gaps of the pouch.

Keyring/Keychain Attachment

I also added a keyring/keychain, so you can keep it handy on a bag or belt. Thread the Tie Up through the keyring/keychain, towards the back of the pouch 

And you’re done!

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I really hope you enjoyed making your Lucky Coin Pouch! If you liked the pattern and have a Ravelry account, you can share it with me and the crochet/knit community there by visiting the pattern page, here.

I am also on Instagram (Username: EssHaych) – I alway make a point of featuring any photos I’m tagged in

Have a great weekend, and Happy Crocheting!

Free Pattern - Happy Pills

This week I thought I’d bring you an updated version of one of my earliest patterns – the Happy Pills!

I wrote this pattern back in 2010, put it on my blog and kind of forgot about it. It was only recently - when I was thinking of easy patterns for beginners - that I remembered it. So I decided to re-vamp it and publish it a-new.

So here it is – the new and improved Happy Pills!

Happy Pills

You Will Need:

• Crochet Hook (I used 3mm)
• Small amount of Double Knit/Light WW Yarn
• 4mm Safety Eyes
• Yarn/Embroidery Needle
• Poly-fill Or Other Stuffing
• Blusher or pink eye shadow (optional)
• 
  
  Abbreviations
• Ch – Chain Stitch
•  Sc – Single Crochet
• St/Sts – Stitch/Stitches
• Slst – Slip Stitch
• Inc (Increase) – 2 Sc into 1 St
• Dec (Decrease) – 1 Sc across 2 Sts
• ** – Marks a group of stitches to be repeated until the round is completed

Gauge

• No gauge, just keep your stitches nice and tight to avoid gaps in your work

Finished Size

• 7cm’s Tall (approx) using a 3mm hook

Other Info

• As this is amigurumi, work in continuous rounds; in a spiral. Don’t join at the end of a row; just keep going
• I write my patterns in American terms, so Sc means Single Crochet; Dc means Double Crochet etc.
• The number at the end of each round is the number of stitches you should now have

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Head/Body

In White1. Ch 2, Sc 6 into 2nd Ch from hook, or Magic Ring 6 (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. *Sc, Inc* around (18)
4-11. Sc around (18)

*Change To Teal*

12. BLO – Sc around (18)
13-20. Sc around (18)

*Add Safety Eyes to top half of pill and stuff*

21. *Sc, Dec* around (12)
22. Dec around (6)

*Finish Off, Weave In End*

Apply a small amount of pink blusher/eye shadow to the cheek area

You might also want to add a mouth to your pill at this point

You're Done!

Pretty simple, right?! I hope you have lots of fun with the pattern!! 

"Hey Guys!"

Free Pattern - Moose Man Milo

Hello everybody, and welcome to another Free Pattern Friday! This week I am happy to bring you my little monster, Moose Man Milo!

I made little Milo last year, when I got my hands on some Katia Amigurumi 4 ply mini yarns. I wanted to make something cute and colourful, and Milo was the result 

As I mentioned – I used Katia 4 ply mini cottons to make this piece. Using this weight yarn my Moose Man turned out to be about 5 inches tall, when using a 2.5mm (B) hook. You could even make your own with a heavier weight yarn and bigger hook size, like 8 Ply or Worsted Weight, and create a massive Milo cuddle monster or cushion!

As always with my patterns, please feel free to make as many ami’s as you like, and I don’t even mind if you sell them on afterwards (as long as you don’t sell the pattern itself). A small credit or link back to this site would be appreciated, Thank You!<3 p="">

So before I ramble on any further, here he is! Moose Man Milo! Enjoy <3 p="">

Moose Man Milo

You will need

• Crochet Hook (2.5mm [B])
• 4 Ply cotton yarn in different colours (I used 10)
• Scissors
• Black and White Buttons
• Black, White and Red Felt
• Keyring/Keychain (Optional)

Abbreviations

• SlSt – Slip Stitch
• Ch – Chain Stitch
• Sc – Single Crochet
• Sc Inc – Single Crochet Increase (2 Sc into one St)
• Sc Dec – Single Crochet Decrease (1 Sc over two Sts)
• St/Sts – Stitch/Stitches
• *  * and [  ] – Indicates a set of stitches to be repeated

Yarn Suggestions

• I used Katia Amigurumi Mini Cottons for this ami, I used 10 different colours and less than 5g of each colour, so you can easily make him with scraps. Experiment with different yarn weights and hook sizes to make a different variation of Moose Man!

Gauge

• No gauge, just keep your stitches nice and tight to avoid gaps in your work

Finished Size

• Approx. 5”, using 4 Ply yarn and a 2.5mm (B) hook

Notes

• Pattern is written in US terms
• Pattern is worked in the round, unless otherwise stated

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Feet (Work Feet Up)

(Make 2)

*Pattern is worked from Feet up*

Start in Colour 1

1: Ch 2, Sc 6 into 2nd Ch from hook, or Magic Ring 6 (6 Sc)

2: Sc Inc around (12 Sc)

3: *Sc,  Sc Inc around* (18 Sc)

4: *Sc 2, Sc Inc* around (24 Sc)

Switch to Colour 2

5: *Sc 3, Sc Inc* around (30 Sc)

6 – 8:     Sc around (30 Sc)

Switch to Colour 3

9 – 12: Sc around (30 Sc)

Switch to Colour 4

13 – 14: Sc around (30 Sc)

*Bind Off, Weave in tail*

Place Foot 1 to the side and make a second, making sure to not bind off of the second foot

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Joining Feet

Continue in Colour 4

15: Continuing on from Foot 2, hold Foot 1 beside it and Sc into any St on Foot 1. Continue to Crochet around Foot 1 until you reach where Foot 2 will join, and again Sc into Foot 2. (See Image 01). This should have joined both Feet together (60 Sc)

16: Sc around (60 Sc)

Image 01

Working The Body

Body

Switch to Colour 5

17 – 20: Sc around (60 Sc)

Switch to Colour 6

21 – 24: Sc around (60 Sc)

Switch to Colour 7

25 – 28: Sc around (60 Sc)

Switch to Colour 8

29 – 32: Sc around (60 Sc)

Switch to Colour 9

Body Continued

33 – 35: Sc around (60 Sc)

36: Sc 4, Sc Dec, *Sc 8, Sc Dec* x 5, Sc 4 (54 Sc)

Switch to Colour 10

37: *Sc 7, Sc Dec* around (48 Sc)

38: Sc 3, Sc Dec, *Sc 6, Sc Dec* x 5, Sc 3 (42 Sc)

39: *Sc 5, Sc Dec* around (36 Sc)

40: Sc 2, Sc Dec, *Sc 4, Sc Dec* x 5, Sc 2 (30 Sc)

*Stuff Body and Feet now*

Switch to Colour 1

41: *Sc 3, Sc Dec* around (24 Sc)

Body Complete

42: Sc, Sc Dec, *Sc 2, Sc Dec* x 5, Sc (18 Sc)

43: *Sc, Sc Dec* around (12 Sc)

44: Sc Dec around (6 Sc)

*Bind Off, Weave in tail*

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Arms

Make 2

In Colour 6

1: Ch 2, Sc 6 into 2nd Ch from hook, or Magic Ring 6 (6 Sc)

2: Sc Inc around (12 Sc)

3: *Sc, Sc Inc* around (18 Sc)

4 – 9: Sc around (18 Sc)

*Bind Off, Leave a long tail for sewing*

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Horns

Make 2

In Colour 9

1: Ch 2, Sc 6 into 2nd Ch from hook, or Magic Ring 6 (6 Sc)

2: Sc Inc around (12 Sc)

3: *Sc, Sc Inc* around (18 Sc)

4: *Sc 2, Sc Inc* around (24 Sc)

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-Split-

To make the split, fold your work in half so that the point where your hook is is halfway down one half of the piece (See Image 02, below) Join to the opposite side of the piece, where your hook now meets. Join with a Single Crochet

Image 02

5 – 6: Sc around this new split round (Split Round 1) (12 Sc)

*Bind Off, Leave a long tail for sewing*

Reattach the yarn to Split Round 2

7 – 9: Sc around this Split Round (12 Sc)

10: Sc Dec around (6 Sc)

*Bind Off, Weave in tail*

Assembly

• Stuff Arms and sew to the sides of the Body
• Stuff Horns and sew to the top, sides of the Head
• Add Button Eyes
• Cut a mouth, teeth and tongue from craft felt, and sew in place under the eyes
• (Optional) Cut a long piece of Colour 1, and sew the Keyring to the top of the Head

YOU’RE DONE!

I hope you enjoyed making your own Moose Man Milo! If you have any questions at all or suggestions please don’t hesitate to comment below and I will be happy to help 

Thanks again, and Happy Crocheting!

Free Pattern - Basic Granny Square

It’s back to basics with this weeks Free Pattern Friday – today I will be showing you how to make your own Basic Granny Square Blanket!

I reckon everyone that’s ever crocheted has encountered the loyal Granny Square at some point. It’s such a versatile and widely made piece of crocheting that it’s really hard to avoid, especially when learning to crochet as it is a great beginners pattern. These blankets can be made in absolutely any size you require – from a tiny 10 x 10 inch piece to use as a lovely, to a 108 x 108 inch massive square for a king size blanket, or even larger!

I have personally made many Granny Square blankets over the years, from one massive square to lots of mini squares joined together. There are countless tutorials online on how to make granny squares and granny square blankets, but in this basic tutorial I will show you my way of making a blanket with one single massive square, including a fancy wavey boarder.

There are virtually hundreds of colour pattern choices for these blankets – you can make them all one colour, 2 colour stripes, multiple thickness stripes with dozens of colours – it’s totally up to you! For the purposes of this tutorial I have changed colours every round, but I will give directions on what to do if you would like to continue in the same colour for the round.

So here it is – the Basic Granny Square Blanket!

Basic Granny Square Blanket

You Will Need

• Crochet Hook – 4mm [G]
• DK/Light Worsted Weight Yarn in 3 colours (C01, C02, C03)
• Yarn/Embroidery Needle

Abbreviations

• Ch – Chain Stitch
• Dc – Double Crochet
• SlSt – Slip Stitch
• St/Sts – Stitch/Stitches
• Sp/Sps – Space/Spaces
• ** – Marks a group of stitches to be repeated

Gauge

• No specific gauge, just keep your stitches nice and tight to avoid big, baggy gaps in your work

Finished Size

• Make your blanket as big or small as you like! The sky’s the limit!

Notes

• This pattern is written in US terms
• Pattern is worked in the round, unless otherwise stated
• The number at the end of each round is the number of stitches you should now have

Blanket Body

Ch 4, Join with a SlSt to beginning Ch

Round 1

Round 1

Ch 3 (counts as 1st Dc now and throughout pattern), Dc 2, Ch 2 *Dc 3, Ch 2* x 3 (all within the starting ring) Join with a SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (12 Dc, 4 x Ch2 Sps)

To begin the next round either:

• Bind off and cut the first rounds yarn. Attach a new colour yarn with a SlSt to any of the Ch 2 corner Sps

or

• SlSt into each Dc over to the next Ch2 corner Sp, and finally into the corner Sp itself. This will bring your working yarn into the centre of the corner for the start of the next round

Round 2

Round 2

Ch 3, Dc 2, Ch 2, Dc 3 into starting corner Sp. Ch 1. *Dc 3, Ch 2, Dc 3 into next corner Ch 2 Sp, Ch 1* x 3. Join with a SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (24 Dc, 4 x Ch2 Sps, 4 x Ch1 Sps)

To begin the next round either:

• Bind off and cut the first rounds yarn. Attach a new colour yarn with a SlSt to any of the Ch 2 corner Sps

or

• SlSt into each Dc over to the next Ch2 corner Sp, and finally into the corner Sp itself. This will bring your working yarn into the centre of the corner for the start of the next round

Round 3

Round 3

Ch 3, Dc 2, Ch 2, Dc 3 into starting corner Sp. Ch 1. Dc 3, into Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1. *Dc 3, Ch 2, Dc 3 into corner Sp, Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1* x 3. Join with a SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (36 Dc, 4 x Ch2 Sps, 8 x Ch1 Sps

To begin the next round either:

• Bind off and cut the first rounds yarn. Attach a new colour yarn with a SlSt to any of the Ch 2 corner Sps

or

• SlSt into each Dc over to the next Ch2 corner Sp, and finally into the corner Sp itself. This will bring your working yarn into the centre of the corner for the start of the next round

Round 4

Round 4

Ch 3, Dc 2, Ch 2, Dc 3 into starting corner Sp, Ch 1. Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1 *Dc 3, Ch 2, Dc 3 in corner Sp.  Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1* x 3. Join with a SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (48 Dc, 4 x Ch2 Sps, 12 x Ch1 Sps

To begin the next round either:

• Bind off and cut the first rounds yarn. Attach a new colour yarn with a SlSt to any of the Ch 2 corner Sps

or

• SlSt into each Dc over to the next Ch2 corner Sp, and finally into the corner Sp itself. This will bring your working yarn into the centre of the corner for the start of the next round

Round 5

Round 5

SlSt over to the next corner Sp. Ch 3, Dc 2, Ch 2, Dc 3 into starting corner Sp, Ch 1. Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1, Dc 3into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1 *Dc 3, Ch 2, Dc 3 in corner Sp.  Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1, Dc 3 into next Ch 1 Sp, Ch 1* x 3. Join with a SlSt to beginning Ch 3 (60 Dc, 4 x Ch2 Sps, 16 x Ch1 Sps

To begin the next round either:

• Bind off and cut the first rounds yarn. Attach a new colour yarn with a SlSt to any of the Ch 2 corner Sps

or

• SlSt into each Dc over to the next Ch2 corner Sp, and finally into the corner Sp itself. This will bring your working yarn into the centre of the corner for the start of the next round

Continue in this pattern until you have the size blanket you require. As a rough guide; using Dk yarn and a 4mm hook I usually make a baby blanket of 40” x 40” in 47 rounds, plus one round for the boarder 

Boarder

There are countless ways to finish your blanket, from simple stitches to something a little more fancy. This boarder is a simple Dc wavy pattern I like to use on my baby blankets...

Wavy!

(Again, make sure you are in one of the 4 corner Sps to start)

1. Ch 3, Dc. Ch 3, Dc 2 all into starting corner Sp. *[Dc 2, Ch 2, Dc 2] all in next Ch 1 Sp* repeat across the whole length of the blanket to the next corner Sp. *[Dc 2, Ch 3, Dc 2] into corner Sp, *[Dc 2, Ch 2, Dc 2] into next Ch 1 Sp* * Repeat around blanket. Join with a SlSt to the beginning Ch 3.

*Bind Off, Weave In Tails*

You’re Done!

Although this is a very simple, beginners guide to making a granny square blanket, I hope some people found it useful! And again, if you have any questions, tips, corrections on the pattern or requests please feel free to comment below or on my Contact page, above, and I will be happy to help you <3 p="">

Thanks again, and Happy Crocheting!